State Profiles: New York Wine Country

New York is a perfect example of how the business climate is at least as important as the natural climate when it comes to the success of the wine industry.

40 years ago, in the mid-1980s, there were only about 30 wineries in the state, and the 30,000-acre grape industry was in an economic crisis. Governor Mario Cuomo took notice, initiated several pieces of legislation, and worked with the Assembly and Senate to get them passed. The sale of wine “coolers” in grocery stores as well as liquor stores…New York wine tastings in liquor stores (where wine is sold in NY)…major winery deregulation providing new marketing opportunities…and creation of a new private sector organization to centralize, consolidate, and coordinate promotion and research programs to support the industry…those were the pieces of the puzzle that turned the entire industry around in just a few years.

Today there are 470 wineries located in 59 of the state’s 62 counties, including in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens. The one regional “wine trail” at that time grew into 20 today, and “wine country” destinations spanning the state attract 5.6 million tourist visits ringing up $1.9 billion in sales, filling state and local tax coffers.

Thanks to great research and extension by Cornell University, and a commitment by the wine community, wine quality has zoomed, earning the Empire State an international reputation as a truly serious wine region. Today, wine generates nearly $15 billion for the New York economy.

This has all been driven by people. In the grape and wine community, and among allies like New York Farm Bureau, there have been many pioneers whose passion, vision, grit, and collaboration made all this happen. The New York State Wine Grape Growers truly got everything started, and still works on policy today. The New York Wine & Grape Foundation, under the leadership of Executive Director Sam Filler, has done a stellar job elevating the industry’s status, as have a number of regional associations throughout the state.

Significantly, New York is by far the strongest supporter of WineAmerica in terms of winery members, associations, and suppliers. That’s partly because collaboration is in the DNA of many New York growers and wineries, but also because they have seen firsthand how working together to enact enlightened public policy can provide opportunity for growth and prosperity. Diversity is our Strength. Unity is our Power.

As we face a challenging period with multiple headwinds—climate change, anti-alcohol movements, political turmoil, generational shifts, increased competition—it’s good to remember that we can help to shape our future by educating public officials about how much wine is worth to our economy at all levels.

New York is living proof. Excelsior!

Great Grapes: Cabernet Franc

Often overlooked in favor of the more commonly planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc is actually one of the parent varieties of Cab Sauv, and has become increasingly popular in cooler, damper climatic conditions like those found in New York and other East Coast states. Once mostly a blending wine, it now shines as a versatile varietal in many styles, consumed young or aged, with a deep purple color and herbaceous aroma when young.