Ohio has long been one of the most vibrant and exciting wine producing states, from the vineyard to the winery and trade associations. In 1823 Nicolas Longworth planted Alexander and Isabella grapes in the Ohio River Valley, followed two years later by Catawba, which quickly became the dominant grape. In that era, Ohio was the largest wine producing state, and Cincinnati the most important city in the national wine trade. As in all other states, Prohibition wiped out the wine industry for decades.
The modern industry has been propelled by several industry pioneers, like the Ferrante family with their classic wines and superb on-site restaurant; Rose Marie Petrovic and Tony Debevc, whose son Tony runs the popular Chalet Debonne winery while their daughter Donnie Winchell runs the Ohio Wine Producers Association; Kent State University at Ashtabula which in 2011 created the state’s first viticulture and enology program; Todd Steiner, the enologist at the Ohio State University’s College of Food, Agriculture and Environmental Sciences; and the Ohio Department of Agriculture which supports research and promotion.
The Ohio Wine Producers Association, often operating on a shoestring, has for decades worked to establish Ohio’s current reputation as a serious producer and an engine of the state’s economy. Executive Director Donniella Winchell also shared the secrets of success by creating the popular License to Steal national wine marketing program now associated with the Eastern Winery Exposition. Donnie was also among the first to master the magic of wine festivals, created the informative “Wine 201” section on their website, and publishes a short, snappy “Tuesday Tidbits” e-newsletter with great marketing ideas. She has also long been involved in national organizations like WineAmerica, and for her dedication and leadership received the Rich Smith Award of Excellence for “Passion, Commitment, Collaboration.”
Today there are six tourism-focused wine trails throughout Ohio, and five AVAs: Lake Erie, Isle Ste. George, Grand River Valley, Ohio River Valley, and Lorraine Creek. While founded on Native American (vitis labrusca) grapes, today the Buckeye State produces a wide variety of wines from those as well as French-American, Cornell, and Minnesota creations, and classic European (vinifera) varieties.
Breitenbart Wine Cellars is named after a stream which winds through the property and means “bright and broad stream”. Located in Der Marketplatz of Ohio’s Amish countryside, since its founding in 1980 the winery has grown 100-fold from 1,500 to 150,000 gallons of wine made from grapes, other fruits and berries, and Dandelions. In fact, its annual Dandelion Festival each May is a major attraction with wine sampling, live music, dandelion picking contests for kids, cooking demos, and 5K and 10K races. Duke Bixler created the operation in 1980 and is joined by his wife Cynthia, and their daughters Anita and Jennifer. The destination also includes a large 1890’s Guest House and the Breitenbart Cafe featuring fresh salads and wood fired pizzas.
Chalet Debonne Vineyards, about an hour east of Cleveland in the Grand River Valley AVA, is a multi-generational success of the Debevc family, originally from the Slovenian area formerly known as Yugoslavia. A large fruit farm became what is now a 175-acre vineyard with a wide variety of grapes producing a diverse selection of wines, including ice wines and non-alcoholic wines to broaden the consumer base. It’s also home to the Double Wing Brewing Company, with its “Mug Club”, offering its different brews in packaging options from 12-ounce cans to growlers; and hosts private events at the popular destination. Tony Debevc Sr. was one of the founders of what is now WineAmerica, also served as Board Chair, and the Debevc family was the first ever cited as “Wine Family of the Year” by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine.
Ferrante Winery & Ristorante in Geneva, also within the Grand River Valley AVA and with GRV prominently on its front labels, is a true family operation combining fine wines and fine foods. Peter and Josephine Ferrante created it, and now five of eight children continue the family tradition in the vineyard, cellar, and restaurant. Sisters Carmel and Mary manage the restaurant, which has a fabulous menu (I’ve had the good fortune of dining there), Anthony manages the 40-acre vineyard, and Nick creates the award-winning wines. While their wine selection is diverse and consistently superb, Vidal Ice Wine is a specialty that wins top awards in major competitions like Best of Show Dessert Wine at the prestigious San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. In addition, they’re affordable: the current vintage goes for $34.00 (375 ml), while a 2022 Bourbon Barrel Aged version is only $42.99—both steals in the ice wine world.
Vermillion Valley Vineyards isn’t in Vermillion or a valley, but rather the Vermillion River Watershed, which ultimately feeds into Lake Erie. That connection—the interconnectedness of ponds, rivers, and lakes—helps explain the owners’ sensitivity to sustainability throughout the operation, from its four distinct vineyards to the architecture and materials in its buildings, and the desire to provide a warm and hospitable environment where people can enjoy world-class wines. The winery also offers live music and venues for both small and large gatherings at its north central Ohio location.
Great Grapes: Vidal Blanc
This reliable and versatile French-America varietal is consistently good in the vineyard and often great in the glass. A cross of Ugni Blanc (used to make Cognac) and Rayon D’Or, the vines produce large clusters with fruity, floral flavors and good balance. Like Riesling, which it can resemble when grown in cool climates, Vidal can produce wines from dry to sweet, including well-balanced late harvest versions along with luscious ice wines.