Virginia has had a long and distinguished history in the world of wine, starting with the earliest settlers in 1609, through the colonial period and independence, and most recently from the mid-1970’s when the Italian Zonin family created Barboursville Vineyards. As the Virginia Wineries Association says, Virginia is situated midway between Europe and California, and produces wines that are “like perfect French spoken with a southern drawl.” Another Virginia-based association is the Atlantic Seaboard Wineries Association, which sponsors an annual competition of wines from up and down the coast.
Ironically, America’s greatest wine promoter was also a failed viticulturist due to black rot which decimated the vinifera vines in his Monticello vineyard. After living in France as the U.S. Ambassador, Thomas Jefferson was smitten by the fruit of the vine and, among many other quotes, said:
“Wine being among the earliest luxuries in which we indulge ourselves, it is desirable that it should be made here and we have every soil, aspect and climate of the best wine countries.”
“We could in the United States make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kinds, but doubtless as good.”
“By making this wine vine known to the public, I have rendered my country as great a service as if I had enabled it to pay back the national debt.”
Virginia is also the birthplace of the Norton grape, a native variety which produces big, bold red wines; and with its mid-Atlantic climatic variations permits many other grape varieties to thrive. The commonwealth also has 10 regions and 8 AVA’s including Roanoke, Rocky Kob, Monticello, George Washington Birthplace, Virginia’s Eastern Shore, Virginia Peninsula, Middleburg, and Shenandoah Valley.
Early Mountain Vineyard, owned by AOL founders Jean and Steve Case, includes 350 acres in the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains, along with nearby Quaker Run Vineyards. With a focus on classic Bordeaux varieties, Early Mountain wines have a distinct Virginia identity reflecting the soil and climate where the grapes are grown; and in 2016 USA Today awarded “#1 Tasting Room” honors to the popular winery, which also includes a fine restaurant.
Ingleside Vineyards has been a true pioneer in the Virginia wine industry since its opening in 1980 by Doug Flemer, who has also played leadership roles in many organizations including WineAmerica where he served as Treasurer. Located in the George Washington Birthplace AVA between the Rappahannock and Potomac rivers, the “Virginia Century Farm” began in 1834 in the Chesapeake Bay region. Doug’s passion for wine began during a trip to Europe as a young man, and he transformed part of the family farm into what is now a 50-acre estate vineyard on sandy loam similar to that found in Bordeaux. He made Virginia’s first traditional method sparkling wine in 1980, and has had great success experimenting with lesser known varietals like Petit Verdot and Albarino, which have won top honors at major international competitions.
Veritas Vineyards and Winery, a 50-acre operation in the Monticello region, was created by Andrew and Patricia Hodson in 1999, with the first vintage in 2001. This is truly a family farm, with son George as the CEO and daughter Emily as the Winemaker—who also recently was awarded the prestigious Rich Smith Award of Excellence for Passion, Commitment and Collaboration. The winery’s name is derived from a famous saying of Pliny the Elder, “In Vino Veritas” (In wine there is truth), and the Hodson family says “the truth in our wine comes straight from our vineyard as an expression of the land where we live and work.” Adding to the attraction of the winery itself is The Farmhouse Restaurant and B&B.
Great Grapes: Viognier
Most commonly associated with France’s northern Rhone region, Viognier (VEE-oh-nee-aye) has found hospitable environments in many other regions (including Virginia), and increasing acceptance among consumers. The wine can have full, spicy flavors reminiscent of the Muscat grape and violets, and range in character from Riesling-like to Chardonnay-ish, but in any case is best consumed young.