Michigan is one of the most successful wine states, combining a long and rich history with pioneering vintners, superb research, and effective trade associations.
The first grapes were planted in 1780, and for decades the vineyards were dominated by native varieties like Concord, Catawba, and Niagara, much of which was destined for Welch’s grape juice. St. Julian is Michigan’s oldest winery (over 100!), Tabor Hill became the first vinifera-focused winery in 1971, followed by Chateau Grand Traverse which staked its future on Riesling. There are five AVAs: Fennville, Lake Michigan Shore, Leelanau Peninsula, Old Mission Peninsula, and Tip of the Mitt. The cold weather of its northern exposure is moderated by surrounding water from two great lakes: Michigan on the west, and Huron on the east.
Michigan State University has long had a robust research and extension program that has greatly benefited the industry as it has grown. The Michigan Craft Beverage Council and Michigan Wine Collaborative have also provided valuable promotional and educational support.
Chateau Chantal Winery & Inn is the creation of Bob and Nadine Begin, former Priest and Nun, who in the early 1980s moved from Detroit to the Old Mission Peninsula with their daughter Marie-Chantal, who is now the President and CEO of the winery named for her. On the former 65-acre cherry farm, they planted the first vinifera grapes in 1986, and the operation’s commitment to sustainability includes farming practices, a large solar array, certified local culinary events, and minimal environmental impact overall. Marie-Chantal studied wine marketing at the prestigious University of Adelaide in Australia, is a Certified Sommelier, and serves on the WineAmerica Board of Directors.
“O’Keefe’s folly” was what Michiganders called Ed O’Keefe Jr.’s vision for a world-class vinifera-focused vineyard and winery in Traverse City. That was 50 years ago, and today Chateau Grand Traverse is just that, with 122 acres of its own and 80 more acres of grapes contracted. The winery and Inn have stayed within the family, with Eddie O’Keefe III running the operation, and also having served as WineAmerica’s Board Chair during trying times in the organization’s history. Riesling, Chardonnay, and Merlot were the first plantings on the former cherry farm, but now a dozen vinifera varieties thrive in the cool climate, protected by the winter warming of Lake Michigan’s Grand Traverse Bay. In addition, CGT wines, especially its Rieslings, have won many prestigious awards for their quality.
St. Julian Winery & Distillery is the passion of the Braganini family, including the fourth generation now involved with the operation headquartered in Paw Paw. With over 100 years of history and over 100 products, St. Julian is the oldest, largest, and most-awarded winery in Michigan. John Braganini is Chairman, his wife Sarah head of Governance and Purchasing, and their sons Apollo II (President) and Dario (Out-State Distribution) carry on the family tradition. They have six tasting rooms throughout Michigan, an incredibly wide range of products, and the first female winemaker in Michigan, Nancy Oxley. St. Julian has also been one of the longest standing members of WineAmerica.
Great Grapes: Syrah
Most often associated with France’s Rhone Valley and Australia, Syrah showed its climatic versatility when a cold-climate Michigan version took top honors in its competition—above Riesling, Pinot Gris, and other white varieties for which the state is known. The wine was characteristically robust but also mellow and balanced to the extent that it was a pleasant sipping wine as well as an accompaniment to lamb or steak.
