Maryland has been a historic and significant state in the development of American wine. The first wine was made there in 1648, and in 1662 Governor Charles Calvert planted 200 acres of vinifera grapes. The first book on viticulture and winemaking was published in 1823, and just over a century later, in 1933, Philip Wagner penned the seminal volume, ultimately titled Grapes Into Wine, which sparked a revolution in eastern winegrowing. A dozen years later he created Boordy Vineyards and sold it to the Deford family in 1980.
Organizations have also been key to the current Maryland wine industry’s success. The Maryland Grape Growers Association was formed in 1981, and the Maryland Winery Association in 2001. Two years later the MWA hired Kevin Atticks, who grew the industry significantly, added other beverages to the association, and is now Maryland’s Secretary of Agriculture.
Maryland’s regionally diverse climate (humid subtropical/continental) stretches across three AVAs (Catoctin, Cumberland Valley, and Linganore) and four overall regions: the Piedmont Plateau, Eastern Shore, Southern Plain, and Western Mountain. The variable terroir allows for a diversity of grape varieties and wine styles.
Boordy Vineyards has been a leader since its founding in 1945 by pioneering wine author Philip Wagner, as well as since 1980 when he sold it to the DeFord family, which had roots in the Long Green Valley since 1725. Reflecting their commitment to sustainability, they have listed their farm on permanent preservation with the Maryland Environmental Trust. Co-owner Rob DeFord III, who studied viticulture and enology at UC Davis, has helped earn Maryland a reputation for quality, as reflected by the International Wine Review in 2022 which said “Boordy Vineyards…has become one of the most visible examples of the rapid rise in quality in East Coast wines.” He also served as Chair of the Board of WineAmerica during a particularly turbulent time, guiding it with a steady hand and firm commitment.
Old Westminster Winery, established in 2010, is a small family vineyard in the rolling hills of northern Maryland, known for its “Natural Wines” and wood-fired pizzas featuring the best of local ingredients. The offerings also include cheese and charcuterie boards, coffees, and nonalcoholic beverages. The 134 acre farm includes vineyards and an apiary.
The Vineyards at Dodon is a very special place, with true reverence for the earth, near the state capital of Annapolis and about 30 minutes from DC. The historic 555-acre working family farm, once a tobacco producer, is located on land owned by the Dodon Land Trust. The vineyard and winery are co-owned by Polly Pittman, who is also a professor of health policy at George Washington University, and Dr. Tom Croghan, who has had successful careers in medicine, immunology and business. Their regenerative farming practices have received recognition, including from a White House environmental water quality specialist. Tom is the winemaker, always aiming for wines that are rich, balanced, aromatic, and with the fresh acidity to complement food. He is also the newest member of WineAmerica’s Board of Directors, and is already making contributions.
Great Grapes: Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is one of the parent grape varieties that gave rise to Cabernet Sauvignon, and is mainly found in cooler, damper climatic conditions than its offspring. While primarily used as a blending grape in Bordeaux, elsewhere it has grown increasingly popular as a varietal on its own due to its versatility of styles and flexibility to be consumed young or aged.
